How Much Direct Drive Torque Do You Actually Need?

By Arjun Gowtham, Esports Head, Virtual Racing Hub
Updated October 2026

I started sim racing on a Thrustmaster T98, moved to a Logitech G29, and then to a MOZA R5, all within about a year. Since joining VRH, I've had the chance to drive a much wider range of hardware, from around 5Nm up to 32Nm, with different wheel rims and simulator setups.

I've used the MOZA R5, R9, R12 and R25, the Simagic Alpha Mini and Alpha EVO Sport, the Conspit Ares Apex and Ares Platinum, and the VNM Xtreme. I mainly race on iRacing and Le Mans Ultimate, and I've used these wheelbases both for my own racing and in group races at VRH on Assetto Corsa.

That experience has made me much less interested in asking how many Newton-metres a wheelbase produces.

Going from a G29 to direct drive is a huge step. The steering feels more immediate, the forces feel cleaner, and you start noticing things like tyre loading, weight transfer and small changes in grip that were much harder to interpret before.

But once you get into good direct drive territory, the differences become much smaller. More torque gives you more headroom and stronger forces, but it doesn't automatically make the force feedback better or make you faster.

For me, the best wheelbase is the one that gives you useful, consistent force feedback, works reliably, and lets you get on with racing rather than constantly configuring hardware.

That's why I think the biggest question isn't “What's the most powerful wheelbase I can afford?” It's “What's enough for me?”

A note on my recommendations: I work at Virtual Racing Hub, so there is naturally a commercial context to the products I have access to. These recommendations are based on my personal experience and preferences, not simply on what VRH sells. Where I mention a product I haven't personally driven, I've said so. I also haven't tried every wheelbase on the market, so this isn't a review of everything available.

The Short Version

*I haven't personally driven these exact models.

Why Does Direct Drive Matter?

The biggest difference I notice when moving from a traditional gear or belt-driven wheel to direct drive is the connection between the car and my hands.

With a G29, there was always a sense that the steering force was being translated through a mechanism before I felt it. With direct drive, the response is much more immediate. When the front tyres load up, the car starts to rotate, or I hit a kerb, I can react to it much more naturally.

The other big change is the amount of information you start noticing. Weight transfer, changes in grip and the difference between a kerb strike and a genuine loss of traction become much easier to interpret.

For someone coming from a G29 or T98, I think direct drive is one of the most noticeable upgrades you can make.

But this is also why I don't think you need to jump straight to 20 or 30Nm. The jump from a traditional wheel to a good direct drive system is much bigger than the jump from a good 10Nm base to a 20 or 25Nm one.

How Much Torque Do You Actually Need?

The way a wheelbase feels in your hands changes quite noticeably as you move up through the torque ranges.

Entry Level: Up to About 6Nm

At this level, you're mainly buying the benefits of direct drive itself. You get a cleaner, more immediate steering response, but the wheel doesn't have the same authority when the car generates bigger forces. Strong corners, heavy braking and big kerb strikes can push it towards its limit fairly quickly.

I wouldn't spend much time shopping for anything weaker than an R5-class wheelbase. I've driven the original R5, not the newer R5 Pro, so I'm recommending the Pro based on the platform rather than hands-on time. I haven't used a lower-powered base that I'd choose over it.

5–10Nm

This is where things start getting really good.

My R5 is a perfect example. I still do most of my racing on it, and I can drive it competitively without feeling like I'm missing some critical piece of information.

Moving from the R5 to something like the MOZA R9, however, is noticeable. The steering has more weight and authority, particularly when the car is loaded up heavily. When you catch oversteer, there is more force behind the correction and more information in your hands. Strong kerbs and sudden changes in load also feel more substantial.

The important thing is that it doesn't suddenly make me faster. It gives me more information and more freedom in how I tune the force feedback.

My pick in this range is the Simagic Alpha EVO Sport. I drive one daily and can vouch for it. The MOZA R9 is the other one I'd happily recommend, and I've spent plenty of time on it too.

I wouldn't expect a night-and-day difference between the two simply because of torque, so I'd choose based on which ecosystem, software, wheels and accessories, suits you better.

10–15Nm

This is where I think the biggest sensible upgrade happens.

Once I get into the 12Nm class, I can run stronger forces without feeling like I'm constantly approaching the limit of the wheelbase.

The difference is particularly noticeable in cars with heavier steering loads. When the car is right on the limit, the steering has more authority and it becomes easier to catch the beginning of oversteer rather than just feeling that something has suddenly gone wrong.

I also notice it over bumps and kerbs. Instead of the wheel simply feeling stronger, there is more room for the smaller changes in steering load to sit underneath the larger forces.

My pick in this range is the MOZA R12. The Simagic Alpha EVO 12Nm is the other one I'd look at, but I haven't driven it, so that recommendation is based on the platform and specifications rather than hands-on experience.

15Nm and Above

I've driven wheelbases up to around 32Nm, and this is where the experience becomes more about how much force you actually want.

There is something undeniably impressive about a very powerful wheelbase. You can put a lot of force through the wheel and the car can feel extremely physical.

But after spending time with them, I don't think the experience scales in a straight line with torque. Going from 5Nm to 10Nm is a much bigger change to me than going from 15Nm to 25Nm. At that point, you're increasingly buying headroom, stronger forces and immersion rather than something most drivers genuinely need.

I frequently run the MOZA R25 Ultra turned down to around 60% force feedback, which tells you something about how much of that extra power I actually use day to day.

For a premium system, I'd look at the MOZA R16 Ultra or the Simagic Alpha EVO Pro 18Nm. I haven't driven either of those exact models, so I wouldn't claim one feels better than the other.

What Makes a Good Direct Drive Wheelbase?

After using different systems, I've become much less interested in the headline torque number and much more interested in how the force feedback actually behaves.

Force Feedback Detail

The first thing I look for is detail. I want to feel the tyres loading up, the car moving underneath me and the difference between hitting a kerb and actually losing grip.

Responsiveness

Responsiveness matters particularly when the car starts to move unexpectedly. When I catch oversteer, I want the wheel to react quickly enough that I can correct the car rather than feeling like I'm reacting to something that has already happened.

Smoothness

I also care a lot about smoothness. A wheel can be very powerful and still feel unpleasant if the force builds and releases in a way that feels artificial.

Clipping

Clipping is another reason for having more torque, but I don't think it should be confused with needing more torque.

Clipping happens when the game asks for more force than the wheelbase can produce, so you lose the difference between strong forces and even stronger ones. You can lower the gain to avoid it, but then the whole force-feedback signal becomes weaker. A stronger base simply gives you more room before you hit that ceiling.

Consistency

Then there is consistency. If I'm racing for two hours, I want the wheel to feel the same at the end as it did at the start.

Software, Ecosystem and Reliability

Finally, I care about the things you can't see in a torque figure: software, wheel ecosystem and reliability.

The VNM Xtreme taught me that one. Its telemetry-based force feedback gave me a very detailed picture of what the car was doing, and I liked the way it communicated changes through the steering. Unfortunately, the hardware issues I experienced ultimately put me off it.

An impressive force feedback system isn't much use if you can't rely on the hardware.

The best wheelbase isn't the one with the biggest specification sheet. It's the one I can turn on and race with.

Smoothness and Response Speed: Cogging and Slew Rate

Two things that explain why wheelbases with the same torque can still feel different are smoothness and response speed.

Smoothness is about how evenly the motor turns. A less smooth motor can feel slightly notchy when you make small steering movements, which spec sheets call cogging.

Response speed, which spec sheets often describe using slew rate, is about how quickly the wheelbase can ramp up the force.

Imagine the rear of the car suddenly stepping out over a kerb. A fast wheelbase delivers that as a sharp change in your hands rather than a slower build-up, and that is a big part of what makes a wheel feel alive.

Manufacturers publish figures for both, but they aren't always measured the same way, so I wouldn't use them to rank brands. I'd rather trust how a wheel feels in your hands.

This is part of why two 12Nm wheelbases can feel noticeably different even though both say 12Nm on the box.

Does More Torque Make You Faster?

I don't think more torque automatically makes you faster.

It can make it easier to understand what the car is doing. When the front tyres start to load up, the rear begins to rotate, or the car goes light over a bump, a stronger wheelbase gives those changes more physical presence. That can help with consistency and with learning a car or track.

When I looked for published tests on this, I found very little. One useful example was a sponsored August 2025 comparison by OverTake.gg, where one driver tested three PXN wheelbases from roughly 5Nm to 12Nm in Le Mans Ultimate at Portimão.

The weakest base eventually produced an average lap faster than the best lap from the strongest one, and the author concluded that the extra force did not directly determine his pace. He did still expect a stronger, more detailed base to help when learning an unfamiliar track.

There are important caveats. It was one driver on one track, PXN supplied the hardware and sponsored the article, the driver already knew the track well, and the weakest base was tested last, so additional practice could have helped.

I haven't done a controlled test myself, so I won't claim I've proven that more torque can't make you faster.

What I can say is that I've driven much stronger wheelbases than my R5, and the extra torque has never translated into a proportional increase in my pace. At some point, the limiting factor is me.

When Is a Wheelbase Too Powerful?

For most people, I think 15Nm is already more than enough.

That doesn't mean 20 or 25Nm is pointless. I would recommend it when the driver specifically wants stronger forces, more headroom or the experience of running a premium simulator.

There are also cars where it makes more sense. If you drive something with heavy steering loads, or simply like a very strong wheel, the extra torque can be useful.

But I wouldn't buy 25Nm just because I think it will make me faster. And I definitely wouldn't put a powerful wheelbase on a flexible cockpit.

At that point, the cockpit becomes part of your force feedback system. The wheel moves, the mounting flexes and you're feeling the rig move instead of what the car is doing.

What Cockpit Do You Need for a Direct Drive Wheelbase?

At lower torque levels, you don't need an enormous aluminium-profile rig. An R5-class wheelbase can work very well on a relatively compact setup.

Once you get towards 10–15Nm, rigidity becomes much more important. Above that, I'd strongly favour a proper aluminium-profile or similarly rigid cockpit.

The goal isn't simply to stop the cockpit from breaking. I want the wheelbase, pedals and seat to stay stable relative to each other. If I turn the wheel and the wheel deck moves instead of the steering staying planted, I'm losing some of the benefit of the wheelbase I just paid for.

This is one of the reasons I think a balanced simulator matters so much. A 12Nm wheelbase on a rigid rig makes far more sense to me than a 25Nm wheelbase mounted to something that flexes.

If you're planning the rest of your setup around a direct drive base, you can browse our sim racing cockpit collection or read our complete sim racing cockpit buying guide.

What Else Should You Consider Before Buying a Direct Drive Wheelbase?

Pedals

This is probably where I'd spend extra money before jumping from 10Nm to 20Nm.

A good brake pedal can make a much bigger difference to consistency and lap time than more steering torque.

You can compare our current sim racing pedals here.

Steering Wheel Compatibility

Think about what you actually want to drive.

If you know you'll eventually want a GT wheel, a Formula wheel and perhaps a round wheel, choose an ecosystem that makes those upgrades easy.

PC or Console Compatibility

This varies by brand and even by individual model, so don't assume a whole range works the same way.

Check the exact wheelbase, the exact wheel and the exact console before buying.

Upgrade Plans

Think realistically.

If you're doing a few hours of sim racing a week, you probably don't need a 20Nm wheelbase because you might become an esports driver in three years.

Buy for the driver you are becoming, not an imaginary version of yourself.

Space

A powerful wheelbase usually leads to a more substantial cockpit, stronger mounting and a more permanent setup. Make sure you actually have the room.

Budget and Support

I would always spread the budget across the whole simulator.

I'd much rather have a good 10–12Nm wheelbase, good pedals and a rigid cockpit than spend almost everything on a 25Nm wheelbase and compromise everything else.

Also ask about warranty and after-sales support before you buy, because that matters more in practice than a couple of extra Newton-metres.

Final Recommendation: How Much Direct Drive Torque Should You Buy?

After driving wheelbases from roughly 5Nm to 32Nm, my advice is pretty simple.

If you're a beginner, get into direct drive with something around 5–6Nm.

For the best balance of price and performance, look at the 9Nm class. My pick is the Simagic Alpha EVO Sport, with the MOZA R9 as the alternative.

If you're a serious sim racer who wants a wheelbase you can keep for years, move to the 12Nm class. The MOZA R12 is my pick.

Beyond 15Nm, you're increasingly buying stronger forces, headroom and immersion rather than something most drivers genuinely need.

I've driven 25Nm and 30Nm+ systems. I've felt what they can do, and I've enjoyed them. But the law of diminishing returns really does rear its head.

I still do most of my racing on an R5.

That doesn't make the R5 the best wheelbase I've driven. It just reminds me that once your hardware is good enough, the next upgrade isn't always another 10Nm — sometimes it's more practice.

You can compare the current direct drive wheelbases available at Virtual Racing Hub, or browse the Simagic range and MOZA Racing range.

About the Author

Arjun Gowtham is the Esports Head at Virtual Racing Hub. He races primarily on iRacing and Le Mans Ultimate and has hands-on experience across direct drive wheelbases from entry-level systems to 30Nm+ hardware.

His recommendations in this article are based on his own sim racing experience, back-to-back use of different wheelbases and the hardware he regularly drives at VRH.

Explore more sim racing hardware and complete simulator setups at Virtual Racing Hub.